Underfloor Heating Loose Wire System

You too can benefit from the practicality and style of ceramic or stone flooring coupled with the luxury of underfloor heating in any room of the house. 

There is no need to dig up the floor and no need to mix concrete.  Simply tape the heating element to the subfloor and lay your tiles... it's as simple as that.
* Undertile Heating cannot always be used as a primary heat source.
** You do not need specialist skills to lay the heating element but you should use an electrician for the wiring.

Underfloor Heating- UNDERTILE HEATER
Technical Specifications:-
To ensure the Undertile Heating system is suitable for your floor please read the following section.

Floor Finishes
Undertile Heating is suitable for use under any ceramic or natural stone floor tiles including:

  • Slate
  • Marble
  • Porcelain
  • Terracotta
  • Limestone

Underfloor heating will also work under thicker floor finishes such as flagstones, however this type of flooring will take longer to heat up.
Undertile Heating MUST NOT be fitted under:

  • Vinyl
  • Wood (incl. Laminate)
  • Cork
  • Carpet

In addition to regular floor finishes, a cement-based smoothing underlayment can be used to cover or protect the heater as part of pre-tiling work (e.g. when laying flagstones). The floor must be tiled using a cement based tile adhesive and grout containing their matching flexible additive, strictly in accordance with their manufacturers' instructions.

Underfloor Heating - Subfloor Preparation
The underfloor heating may be fitted on either a suspended (timber) or a solid (concrete) subfloor. The subfloor must be smooth, clean and free from old adhesive residues or bitumen.
If damp-proofing or tanking systems are being used, it is advisable to contact the manufacturer of the system for advice. Normally, it will be necessary to apply at least 5mm of smoothing underlayment on top of the finished tanking.

Underfloor Heating - Suspended Floors – Timber
When fitting to a timber subfloor, the floorboards or chipboard must be over-boarded with a suitable Warmup Insulation Board or 18 mm WBP woodfloorplywood. Existing floorboards must be fixed securely and, if necessary, pre-levelled with a latex/cement smoothing underlayment to give a flush fit for the WBP plywood or the Warmup Insulation Board. Ply must be screwed at 200m centres and installed as per BS 5385: Part 3 Clause 14.4 .

Warmup Insulation Board must be fixed with flexible tile adhesive. For best performance the board should also be secured with five screws and penny washers per board.

Fixing ply directly to the joists may not provide a sufficiently stable floor finish to accept tiles; fitting tongue and grove flooring and then over-boarding with ply or Warmup Insulation Board is recommended.

Chipboard, MDF and OSB boards are not appropriate bases for tiling.

Solid Floors - Concrete
solid floorIf tiling on a concrete floor, Warmup recommends the use of Warmup Insulation Board to improve the performance and efficiency of the system. Warmup Insulation Board is fixed directly to the subfloor with tile adhesive. The heater is then fitted directly on top of the board before being tiled over.

Un-insulated concrete or screed subfloors may also be fitted with the Warmup System, however they will be less responsive and take significantly longer to heat up (sometimes in excess of 8 hours).

solid floor

Extended heat up times will lead to higher running costs.

warmup kit Warmup under floor heating